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Lights outside Kathmandu Hotel first
night in Nepal. |
Upon arrival in Nepal I was greeted by a sheer blast of humanity at the airport. I had just come from Thailand where the airport was very clean and modern. There were moving walkways that very nicely told me in Thai "โปรดระวัง . ทางเดินเป็นสิ้นสุด. โปรดระวัง . ทางเดินเป็นสิ้นสุด "and English, “Please be careful, the walkway is ending. Please be careful, the walkway is ending.”
As I worked my way through Customs in Nepal, I realized very quickly I was in a whole different world. That whole new world continued as I went outside. Before I left Thailand I set up an airport transfer to my hotel in Thamel, which is the touristy area of Kathmandu. As I walked outside to find my taxi I was overwhelmed by men asking me, “Taxi? Taxi? Good price, good price for you.” “Help with your bag? I help you.” Then proceeding to try and physically take my bag out of my hands. That I didn’t care for so much.
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Luggage being loaded to
the top of the bus |
Luckily my transfer people were there with my name nice and big on a sheet of paper. They loaded me and my now broken luggage into the itty bitty taxi and zoomed off towards Thamel. 45 minutes later and a few thoughts of, “what have I gotten myself into this time?”, we made it to the cute little Kathmandu Resort Hotel located next to a bank and above a car garage. I luckily had an afternoon to wander Thamel and take in the sites.
The next day I met up with our wonderful in-country director, Bishnu Adakari, who gathered us all from various places in Kathmandu then we were loaded into Nepali busses. Our home for the next 6.5 hours that day and another 8 the next.
I don’t care what anyone says about roads in the US. They have NOTHING on roads in Nepal. Imagine taking a normal US road. Then age said road by 20 years. Add in 20 years of snow and ice chipping away said road. Don’t bother adding new lines, no one pays attention to them anyway. Got it?
Okay, now with that super fun road add the following: large busses, mini busses, taxis, 2 door sedans that have been doctored beyond belief and are somehow still running, tuk-tuks, motor bikes with full families, bicycles, the random cow, and of course lots and lots of pedestrians.
Welcome to Nepal roads.
As we began our 2nd day of driving by loading onto the busses and heading towards Duradanda. Bishnu told us, “Enjoy the silk roads now. When we change busses we will then head into the ‘real Nepal’.
So enjoy now!” Yikes.
Our lunch break was brought to us courtesy of the transmission dropping out of the 1st set of “large” busses. I was truly impressed by the mechanical prowess of our driver and his bus boy. They ushered us all off the bus. We hiked up a little path not realizing it would lead directly into someone’s front yard and had lunch. While we ate, they managed to patch the bus back together and get her running again. We then drove another mile to meet the tractor and smaller busses which would take us the remainder of the way to Duradanda.
Stuffing into the back of an extremely tiny public bus headed up the mountain to Duradanda is difficult. I realized quickly that Nepali buses were designed with Nepali people in mind. Nepali people are much shorter and not as large as American people. This equaled a very long, very cramped, leg numbing 4 hour bouncy ride in the back of the bus.
Switch back. Switch back. Switch back. Switch back.
Welcome to the REAL Nepal.
Don’t look now, but there’s a 2000 foot drop to the valley floor outside your window.
So after ...
- 2 days on a 2 different buses
- 1 broken transmission
- 1 transfer which included throwing bags off the top to a waiting tractor
- a Nepali high road traffic jam which included our tractor and bus backing up....down the road to make way for the truck load of delicious oranges
- a back seat window seat where I feared I would fall out when the bus went over the HUGE potholes the size of Kathmandu
- getting out to walk a “short” 1 1/2 hour distance
- about 4 hours later than we expected
........we made it.
Swagatam (welcome) Duradanda
Namasate